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Welcome to the world of vivariums, where nature, art, and science converge to create stunning miniature ecosystems
In this guide, we’ll dive into the details of vivarium construction, exploring various methods, and weighing their pros and cons.
Our goal is to equip you with the knowledge needed to make informed decisions, steering clear of costly errors, and ensuring your vivarium flourishes from the start.
Building a successful vivarium requires a solid foundation and a dash of patience. By understanding the nuances of construction, you’ll unlock the potential to achieve thriving results.
We'll break this article into 11 sections
Overview
Enclosures
Backgrounds
Drainage
Substrates
Hardscape
Plants
Lighting
Humidity
Cleanup crew
Maintenance
Before digging in...
Building a vivarium should be a fun and rewarding experience, allowing for creativity and experimentation.
But remember:
You're crafting a home for living creatures, and their welfare must take top priority.
While you should create a vivarium that appeals to your personal tastes, every decision should be made with the animal’s well-being in mind.
In addition to this guide on vivariums, you should do extensive research on the specific species that you are housing.
The ultimate goal is to design a vivarium that allows your pet to thrive, not just survive.
And with that, let’s begin!
1. Intro to vivariums
What exactly is a vivarium?
Let’s begin with the term itself. “Vivarium,” derived from Latin, loosely translates to “place of life.”
According to Google’s definition, a vivarium is an enclosure or structure adapted for maintaining animals under semi-natural conditions, whether for observation, study, or as pets.
So on a basic level, the term “vivarium” encapsulates all styles of enclosures that are home to animals, including aquariums, terrariums, paludariums, and any other “ariums” you can think of.
In reality, many of these terms are often used interchangeably.
The most commonly-accepted distinction is that “terrarium” typically refers to a setup for plants only, while “vivarium” includes enclosures that are created to house both plants and animals.
Components of a vivarium
While vivariums can vary widely in complexity and design, they all share common elements, as illustrated below.
A typical tropical vivarium, which is the focus of this book, includes a soil base for plants, often layered over a drainage system to prevent overly-saturated substrate.
Additionally, these vivariums incorporate plants, lighting, misting systems, and background elements to create the desired environment.
2. Enclosures
Nowadays, enclosures come in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and materials. Some are pre-assembled, some come flat-packed.
Each type of enclosure has its own advantages and disadvantages, so it’s important to consider the inhabitants you plan to house.
In this section, we’ll delve into the three most common types of enclosures used for building vivariums (and briefly mention a few others).
We’ll discuss key factors to consider when selecting the right enclosure for your animals.
By the end of this section, you’ll be equipped to make an informed decision, ensuring a comfortable home for your pets.
Glass enclosures
Glass enclosures are easily the most common type of enclosure for vivarium builders.
They are a popular choice because they are widely available, and offer a sleek and modern look that many people appreciate.
However, there are also some drawbacks to consider.
They are not as efficient at retaining heat as other types of enclosures, which is something to consider for desert animals, because it may affect your heating bill.
Additionally, they are the heaviest and most fragile of all the enclosure types, making larger sizes more difficult to move around or relocate once built out.
Overall, though, glass vivarium enclosures are a great choice for keepers who are looking for an aesthetically pleasing and widely available option.
Where to buy
Glass enclosures are readily available at most pet and reptile stores, offering a range of sizes to suit your needs. You can also order them online, although larger sizes may have shipping limitations.
Popular brands like Exo-Terra, Zoo-Med, and Repti-Zoo are a great place to start. InSitu Ecosystems, while expensive, are designed specifically for tropical setups and also worth considering.
Pros
Overall aesthetics
Commonly available
Variety of sizes
Cons
Heavy and fragile
Often 3ft or smaller
PVC enclosures
PVC enclosures are a popular choice, particularly for snake keepers and those with larger lizards. They are typically larger than glass enclosures and are very sturdy.
A couple of the best features of PVC enclosures is that they are designed to stack well, and are highly customizable, both of which is great for those with multiple animals.
Common sizes for PVC enclosures include 4’x2’x2’ and 6’x2’x2’, which are ideal for medium-sized snakes and lizards such as ball pythons and bearded dragons. Custom sizes are also readily available.
Overall, PVC enclosures are a great choice for those with larger animals or for those who want a more sturdy and stackable option.
Where to buy
Most reptile stores carry PVC enclosures, though the variety and available sizes may be limited.
There are many online suppliers of PVC enclosures, including Reptile Kages, Custom Reptile Habitats, Dubia Roaches, Toad Ranch Cages, and more. They are usually be flat-packed, so some assembly may be required.
It’s also worth looking around for local builders, which are often easy to find at reptile expos.
Pros
Large custom sizes
Overall durability
Stackable
Cons
Aesthetics (debatable)
One-sided viewing
Wood enclosures
A third option for vivarium enclosures is a wood. Wood enclosures are more common for large DIY builds. This option requires some level of handiness.
A common concern with wooden enclosures is if they will absorb odors, moisture, and even break down, but this is not likely to happen if it is properly sealed during construction.
Wood enclosures are more durable and less fragile than glass, and they can be designed to fit your personal style and preferences. They are quite similar to PVC enclosures, with the added step of needing waterproofing.
If well-built and waterproofed, a wood enclosure is a good option for people looking for a large DIY project, even for very humid environments.
Most commonly, you will see wood enclosures for large snakes and lizards such as reticulated pythons and
monitors.
Where to buy
In general, wood enclosures are utilized in DIY projects by individuals who enjoy crafting their own setups, and not commonly found for sale.
Pros
DIY for any size
Durable if done right
Fun if you’re handy
Cons
Aesthetics (debatable)
Waterproofing
Other enclosures
Modular setups
For vivarium enthusiasts, a single enclosure may not be sufficient to satisfy their hobby. In fact, they may end up with an entire wall of enclosures, like this! (Life goals, am I right?)
For those anticipating a large collection, there are modular systems available. These systems enable you to achieve a consistent look and feel across multiple enclosures.
A popular company to look into that offers a complete design system for modular enclosures, stands, and spacers is Zen Habitats.
These modular setups offer a great solution for those looking to house multiple species.
Built for breeders
One last company worth mentioning is Leap Habitats, which has created a line of lightweight enclosures designed to fit standard bakers racks.
Although they may not be as aesthetically pleasing as all-glass enclosures, they are still attractive, and in our opinion, perfectly suited for a breeding system.
Selecting an enclosure
Ultimately, factors such as size, style, and the type of inhabitants play a crucial role in decision-making.
Regardless of the enclosure type you select, it’s crucial to ensure it meets the needs of your animals. Depending on the animals, that could mean available sizes, sufficient ventilation, humidity control, and more.
By choosing an appropriate enclosure, you will have a solid foundation to design a captivating and functional vivarium where your pets can thrive.
Considerations to keep in mind
Aesthetics
General availability
Sizes available
Customizability
Ventilation
Heat retention
What size should I choose?
Image: InSitu Ecosystems
The size of the enclosure you choose depends significantly on the animals you intend to house.
We always recommend opting for a larger enclosure.
If your budget permits, avoid the bare minimum. Your pets will appreciate and deserve the extra space.
By choosing a larger enclosure, you can observe more natural behaviors and enjoy a more expansive and beautiful display.
3. Backgrounds
Creating a vivarium background can be a fun and rewarding process. With various methods available, there is no right or wrong way to go about building one. Whether you choose to keep it simple or opt for a more intricate design, the key is to start with what you're comfortable with and build your skills over time.
Let's discuss the most common types of backgrounds.
No background
Image: Zookeeper TV
Don’t dismiss the idea of not having a background as a possibility.
There are plenty of impressive vivariums without any background at all.
However, always consider the needs of the animals you are going to be housing.
For instance, Emerald Tree Skinks are avid climbers and require ample climbing opportunities. Therefore, an enclosure without a background (and side walls) for them to climb on would not be suitable.
The enclosure to the left, for example, would be well-suited for small tree frogs or thumbnail poison frogs.
Background inserts
Image: Vivariums in the Mist
Many main-brand glass enclosures come with foam inserts. Although, they are not particularly attractive or useful for refuge or growing plants.
If you want something just as simple, but better looking and more durable, there are other options available.
Universal Rocks and Aquadecor are probably the best known companies in this department (they are often marketed for aquariums, but work just as well in vivariums). There are also several shops on Etsy worth checking out.
In addition to backgrounds, many of these companies also sell standalone branches and rocks, so you can have a complete and cohesive setup.
Don’t expect plants to grow well on these, however. Although the material is quite durable, they’re typically not porous and do not retain much moisture.
For this reason, these backgrounds are often best fit for lizards and snakes that would otherwise destroy a delicately planted enclosure.
Flat backgrounds
Image: Ultimate Reef
If the inserts aren’t for you, this next method is almost as simple. Let’s call them “flat backgrounds” for lack of a better term.
For this technique, several materials work effectively, such as coco fiber mats or tree fern panels. Simply cut or shape them to fit and use silicone to attach them to the rear and sides of the enclosure.
Tree fern panels tend to be better at growing plants, but it is generally much more expensive.
There are even moisture wicking fabrics like Hygrolon or EpiWeb can serve the same purpose.
The advantage of flat backgrounds over inserts lies in their ability to retain moisture and provide space for plant roots to grow.
These backgrounds may start off rather plain, but with high humidity and a bit of patience, the background can be completely covered in vines, mosses, and epiphytes, eventually concealing any initial plainness.
Overall, this method is straightforward and efficient, requiring minimal time and effort while still achieving a lush and green background.
Expanding foam
Image: Vivarium Collective
One of the most popular methods involves using expanding foam, silicone, and coco coir.
First, expanding foam, like Great Stuff, is applied onto the rear and sides of the enclosure. This foam is highly adhesive and can also be used to attach hardscape elements during application.
Once the foam has cured, it becomes firm, allowing you to carve it into your desired shape using a utility knife.
Afterwards, a layer of silicone is applied, and dried coco coir is pressed into it, working in sections to prevent the silicone from drying prematurely.
The main benefit of this method is that you can sculpt it to any shape you desire. You can create ledges, caves, or other natural features according to your design.
One drawback, though, is that it doesn’t retain water well, which makes it challenging for plants to grow on it.
One solution is to begin by covering large areas with cork flats, and then using foam to fill in leftover areas. You can also secure plastic pots with this method, aiding in planting.
There are countless tutorials on YouTube covering this method, and we recommend watching several before beginning your project.
Compressed cork
Image: Vivariums in the Mist
A newer style gaining popularity, and currently our favorite approach, is using compressed cork panels, such as those from Zoro, typically used for insulation.
There are a couple of methods for using this material.
One approach is to silicone full sheets (opt for a thicker sheet for more variation) onto the background and sides, then “texture” the surface by extracting bark chunks with a screwdriver or similar.
Another method involves pre-ripping the panels into chunks (though this can be messy) and then silicone them into place, one at a time. This results in a more 3D effect but requires significantly more effort.
Compared to the expanding foam method, we prefer the more textured and darker color of compressed cork. Additionally, due to its texture, it can retain water in areas that receive frequent misting, making it more likely for plants to attach to it.
Biotope Gallery often uses compressed cork in many of their setups, so we recommend watching some of their videos for inspiration and guidance.
Pumice rock
Image: Vivariums in the Mist
This method is most popular among terrariums. However, it can work just as well for vivariums with “low impact” critters like dart frogs or small lizards.
Pumice is a lightweight, porous volcanic stone (Featherock is a common brand). It’s about a quarter of the weight of granite, and the pores will hold a bit of water.
The rocks are cut in half to create a flat surface and siliconed into place. Being a soft rock, you can actually cut them with regular metal tools, but use old or dull tools you don’t mind getting scuffed up. And be safe!
After the rocks are siliconed into place, all of the gaps can be tightly packed with sphagnum moss.
The best part about this is how much moisture the background can retain. Vining plants and mosses will thrive because it’s so porous, and it will become extremely lush over time.
Being all natural materials, it has natural feel, too. Patience is key while the plants grow and surfaces are covered.
Planted Glass Boxes uses this method for extremely large terrariums, and created an in-depth workshop that’s available for purchase.
See his pinned story “Workshop Info” for more details.
Faux rock
Image: Kono Terra
At the master-class level, the most impressive backgrounds, in our opinion, are created by hand-painting foam that has been coated with concrete.
People often begin with large foam sheets, such as XPS foam sheets, but any styrofoam will work.
Sheets are cut, stacked, and siliconed together to quickly and cheaply fill in large areas, and then carved to the desired shape. Expanding foam can be used for detail work like filling gaps and attaching hardscape.
Next, people will coat the carved foam with layers of concrete. Fast-drying concrete, such as Drylok, is mixed and applied to the foam to give it a more natural and durable texture.
When the concrete is still damp, patterns can be etched in for further refinement.
Afterwards the final shape is painted to look natural using a whole assortment of techniques, ranging from airbrushing to filling spray bottles with heavily watered-down paints.
For some truly incredible vivariums using this method, check out Kono Terra, Tino Anttila, and Mr. Monkey, though there are plenty more.
A blank canvas
Creating a vivarium background can be both enjoyable and challenging.
With various methods available, there is no right or wrong way to go about building one. Often, the best backgrounds are a combination of techniques.
Whether you choose to keep it simple or opt for a more intricate design, it’s helpful to start with what you’re comfortable with and build your skills over time.
Make sure to consider the types of inhabitants you are going to house, since some are more challenging that others (such as larger snakes and lizards).
Embrace experimentation and unleash your artistic side, even if you don’t think you have one!
With patience and dedication, crafting a stunning and functional vivarium background is well within reach, ensuring both you and your pets will appreciate the result.
4. Drainage systems
When creating a tropical vivarium, constant heavy misting can lead to an accumulation of water at the enclosure’s bottom.
To avoid overly-saturated substrate, it is important to include a drainage layer (also referred to as a false bottom) that raises the dirt up by an inch or two, allowing excess water to pass through the soil and accumulate below.
The excess water should be drained periodically before it reaches the substrate.
Skipping the inclusion of a drainage layer can lead to bacterial growth, unpleasant odors, and an unhealthy ecosystem.
The general concept to building a drainage layer is straightforward.
The bottom of the vivarium is dedicated to the drainage layer, which is covered by a substrate barrier, and then topped with the substrate itself.
The substrate barrier is used to prevent the substrate from falling in and clogging the sytem.
Let’s explore a few approaches to building this system.
Do I need a drainage system?
Whether you need a drainage system in your vivarium depends on the type of environment you’re creating.
In arid or temperate setups, a false bottom is often unnecessary; you can fill the enclosure directly with your chosen substrate.
However, for tropical environments with heavy misting like those for poison dart frogs, a drainage layer is highly recommended.
Even if you’re unsure about the need for one, having a drainage system acts as a fail-safe in case of over-watering, making it a worthwhile addition.
Expanded clay pellets
Image: Glass Jungles
The simplest way to create a drainage layer is by using expanded clay pebbles, such as LECA (lightweight expanded clay aggregate) or Hydroton.
These pebbles are lightweight and allow water to collect easily due to their porous nature.
To implement this method, pour 1 to 2 inches of pebbles into the bottom of the enclosure, place your substrate barrier (more on that later) on top, and then add the substrate.
This approach is advantageous for its ease of use, quick setup, and lightweight properties.
While expanded clay pebbles may not be readily available at all stores, they can be found at plant stores, hydroponic shops, and numerous online retailers.
Don’t substitute for gravel
For small terrariums, many people will use gravel for a drainage layer. That’s okay when the enclosure is only a gallon or two.
Don’t do that for a vivarium, though, as you will be impressed by how fast their weight accumulates!
Egg crate false bottom
Image: Vivariums in the Mist
Another common technique for creating a drainage layer involves using egg crate that is suspended on pedestals.
Egg crate is a lightweight and durable plastic material typically sold in 2ft x 4ft sheets, although other sizes are available.
To implement this method, you’ll need to cut the egg crate to fit the interior dimensions of your enclosure and create small pedestals to raise it to the desired height.
Pedestals can be made from additional egg crate, or you can cut PVC tubes and place them vertically. It’s advisable to secure the pedestals to the egg crate using zip ties.
While this approach is functional, we find it to be more work than it’s worth, although some individuals prefer it.
Additionally, one drawback is the visibility of white edges along the glass, which some people address by spray painting them black.
Sponge mats
Image: Biotope Gallery
This is currently our preferred method.
Large sponge mats, available in rolls or sheets online, are easy to work with.
Simply cut the sponge to fit the bottom of the enclosure and lay it in place. While some individuals opt to secure it with silicone, this isn’t necessary if the sponge covers the entire base of the vivarium.
You can also cut pieces of sponge to stack and create slopes, reducing the amount of soil needed and keeping the vivarium lighter.
Depending on your plant choices, you may even be able to skip substrate altogether, and place a layer of sphagnum and live moss directly on top of the sponge.
We find this method to be nearly as straightforward as using expanded clay pebbles (LECA), but in our opinion, it creates a more appealing appearance.
An additional advantage, especially in paludariums, is that the sponge will provide both mechanical and biological filtration as water flows through it.
Adding a substrate barrier
Image: Arachnid Sentini
Regardless of the method you choose, it’s recommended to place a substrate barrier on top of the drainage layer, before adding any substrate.
This will prevent too much substrate from falling into the drainage system, defeating it’s purpose.
Most online vivarium supply shops sell specific substrate barriers, but some regular fiberglass screen mesh will work just as well.
It’s helpful to make this oversized to minimize gaps around the edges.
Features of a good substrate barrier
Substrate barriers are relatively simple, and you’re not limited to the two options mentioned earlier. Many materials will suffice, especially if they meet the following criteria:
Easily cut to size
Drains easily
Resists corrosion
Supports substrate
Removing excess water
You might be asking yourself, “Won’t the water level in the drainage system rise and eventually reach the substrate?”
This can happen, especially with frequent misting.
To prevent this, it’s crucial to plan ahead and incorporate a method for excess water removal. There are two common approaches for addressing this issue.
Syphon water manually
Image: Pumpkin Beth
When constructing the drainage layer, think about incorporating a PVC pipe or a similar item that runs from the bottom of the vivarium up through the substrate barrier and into the substrate itself.
Create notches in the tube’s bottom to allow water to enter, and cover the tube with a cap to prevent substrate from falling into it.
When excess water has collected, simply move aside some substrate to reveal the drainage hole, remove the cap, and use tubing to siphon out the water.
Bulkhead fittings
Image: Repti-Zoo
Another option is to install a bulkhead fitting with a shutoff valve. This is a great convenience, especially when you have multiple setups.
Depending on your enclosure, this method may involve drilling a hole through the back panel of glass.
Fear not, though, many glass enclosures now come in paludarium versions with pre-drilled holes and all the necessary fittings and tubing.
The advantage of this system is that you don’t have to disturb the substrate and plants to remove excess water.
Here is a video to see it in action.
The valve can be left open for constant overflow into a container below, or closed until you’re ready to drain the water into a bucket.
Drilling an enclosure
We prefer purchasing pre-drilled paludarium enclosures with the necessary fittings included.
However, if you’re inclined towards DIY projects or already have an enclosure, drilling your own holes is entirely feasible.
With the right tools and some prep work, it’s a fairly straightforward process.
You can watch this helpful video to guide you through the process.
Video: Steenfott Aquatic
5. Substrates
Substrate can appear to be a complex topic due to the wide range of options available, but it doesn’t have to be.
Let’s begin with what makes for a good substrate.
Firstly, moisture retention is key. Mosses and tropical plants thrive in high humidity, so a substrate that holds moisture effectively will help maintain ideal humidity levels.
Image: Terrarium Tribe
Next, good drainage is essential. Poor drainage leads to saturated soil and stagnation, harmful to the vivarium’s health. The water should flow freely through the substrate to the drainage layer.
Moreover, the substrate should resist compaction. Over time, compacted substrate causes waterlogging issues.
Lastly, while nutrient inclusion is debatable, many vivarium inhabitants naturally provide enough waste for nutrients. However, adding worm castings can supplement nutrients if needed (particularly in terrariums without animals).
As long as you’re covering your bases and include a balanced mix of “chunkies” and “fluffies” (as Ben from Worcester Terrariums calls them), your substrate mix is likely be just fine.
Features of a good substrate
Retains moisture
Drains easily
Resists compression
Provides nutrients
Now let’s explore two approaches to substrate: buying ready-made substrates, and making your own mix.
Ready-made substrates
If you’re seeking a hassle-free approach, opting for a ready-made substrate mix is the recommended choice.
These blends provide convenience, featuring carefully balanced ingredient ratios to ensure optimal moisture retention and drainage.
If you’re just getting started, this is a great approach. Simply purchase the appropriate sized bag(s) and start using it.
The Bio Dude is a commonly recommended resource, offering six different mixes tailored to specific animals and humidity levels.
We have personally used both the Terra Flora and Terra Fauna mixes and were happy with the results.
Terra Flora is ideal for high humidity setups like poison dart frogs, while Terra Fauna is suitable for medium to high humidity setups with better ventilation, such as crested geckos.
One product that we do not recommend is Zilla Jungle Mix. Maybe it’s just us, but every time we work with it, we end up with tiny hair-like pieces stuck in my fingers like splinters and need tweezers to remove them!
Recommended products
Mixing your own substrate
Mixing your own substrate can be cost-effective when building multiple vivariums, and allows you to tailor it to your specific needs.
If you choose to mix your own substrate, you should aim for a mixture that retains moisture and humidity, while also providing adequate drainage.
An ABG mix is a good target, and typically incorporates tree fern fiber, peat or coco-coir, charcoal, sphagnum moss, and orchid bark. Terrarium Tribe has a good recipe.
It’s worth noting that peat, a common ingredient, is not sustainably harvested. As an alternative, coco-coir is a suitable substitute.
ABG mixes work well for both tropical and temperate setups, and can also be purchased ready-made.
It is crucial to avoid anything containing fertilizers or chemicals in your substrate. When uncertain, it is always better to err on the side of caution and prioritize the safety of your vivarium inhabitants.
What’s an ABG mix?
ABG stands for “Atlanta Botanical Garden.” They formulated a popular substrate blend that’s often used in vivariums and terrariums. It typically includes tree fern fiber, peat or coco-coir, charcoal, sphagnum moss, and orchid bark.
Leaf litter and botanicals
Regardless of the approach you choose, it is uncommon for individuals to leave the substrate on its own without further additions.
It is often recommended to further enhance the substrate by adding elements such as sheet moss, leaf litter, and botanicals on top.
Not only does this contribute to the visual realism of the vivarium, but it also plays a crucial role in creating an optimal environment for a thriving cleanup crew.
Sheet moss helps contain the substrate, preventing it from being dragged around and creating a mess.
Leaf litter provides an ideal habitat for isopods and springtails, offering them a place to live and forage.
While botanicals are optional, they can add visual interest and realism. We use monkey pods as feeding dishes for fruit flies, as they can be easily removed and rinsed of excess vitamin powder.
These additional layers serve as vital habitats and food sources, promoting a balanced ecosystem within your vivarium.
Can I collect my own leaf litter?
Collecting leaf litter is a common practice, but it’s essential to do so with caution. Many areas use fertilizers, including municipal spaces.
Only gather leaf litter from places you are certain do not use fertilizers.
An additional precaution is to boil the leaves before adding them to your vivarium. This process can help eliminate any unwanted pests.
When uncertain, it’s always safer to purchase
leaf litter.
6. Hardscape
Hardscape elements not only contribute to the visual appeal of the vivarium but also play a vital role in providing naturalistic structures, hiding spots, and climbing opportunities for the inhabitants.
Let’s discuss the most popular types.
Driftwood and branches
Image: Aqua Rocks
Driftwood and branches are popular hardscape choices in vivariums. They can provide lots of climbing opportunities and perching spots.
They also serve as natural hiding places, promoting the animals’ sense of security and natural behavior.
Various wood types come with distinct sizes, shapes, and textures, along with differing sturdiness and durability levels. Sturdy branches are essential to support the weight of larger animals to prevent potential hazards.
When adequately moist, they create ideal surfaces for plant growth, especially for epiphytes, vines, and mosses.
Cork bark
Image: Pet World
Cork bark is a popular hardscape element that provides a range of benefits in vivarium design. It’s lightweight, highly textured, and resistent to rot even in wet conditions.
The textured surface of cork allows animals to easily climb and explore, promoting their natural behavior.
Cork bark tubes provide natural hiding places for animals, simulating the protective cover of fallen trees or crevices in their native habitats.
Cork bark flats are also a great material to use for backgrounds. We use generous amounts of cork bark flats combined together, and fill the gaps with expanding foam.
The beauty of cork bark lies in its versatility—multiple pieces can be combined together to craft stunning designs that are not only visually appealing but also highly functional.
Rocks and stones
Image: Blu’s Zoo
Rocks and stones are versatile hardscape elements commonly employed in vivarium design.
They come in various forms, colors, and weights, offering natural climbing opportunities and serving as hiding spots when stacked safely.
However, it’s essential to be cautious about their weight for several reasons.
The cumulative weight of rocks can surprise you, even with small ones, so consider this if you plan on relocating or adjusting your vivarium in the future to avoid straining yourself.
Additionally, be mindful if you have inhabitants that like to dig, as rocks can potentially collapse if not properly secured or supported from below, posing a risk to your pets.
Buying hardscape
When it comes to purchasing hardscape materials for your vivarium, there are a few options to consider.
We prefer purchasing hardscape, particularly large pieces, in person. This way, you can assess the size and unique shapes of the materials firsthand, ensuring they fit perfectly into your vivarium design.
Reptile expos are our favorite choice for sourcing hardscape materials because they offer a wide selection of hardscape in one location, and often have great deals as well.
Local aquarium shops and reptile stores are our next preferred option for purchasing hardscape materials. While it may require visiting multiple places to find the right pieces, the advantage of seeing the items in person is invaluable.
If you don’t have access to local stores or expos, ordering online is a viable alternative, though you may not know the exact size and shape until it arrives at your door.
This method is particularly suitable for smaller filler pieces where precise size and shape may not be critical.
Can I forage for hardscape?
Foraging for hardscape can save you a significant amount of money, but there are several factors to consider.
Firstly, consider the types of materials available in your area. For instance, if you reside in a desert region, the wood you find may deteriorate quickly in a highly humid enclosure.
Additionally, ensure that you never harvest from areas treated with pesticides.
Lastly, you can’t completely eliminate the risk of introducing unwanted pests. Many people soak foraged items and allow them to dry in the sun for an extended duration as precautionary measures.
Hardscape design
The placement and arrangement of hardscape elements play a crucial role in creating a balanced design.
While vivarium design deserves a course of it’s own, let’s explore a few fundamental considerations.
Tips for working with hardscape
Create depth and dimension
Incorporating various levels and depth within the vivarium not only adds visual appeal but also provides exploration opportunities for your animals.
Utilize elevated platforms, plenty of branches, and backgrounds to offer climbing spaces and microhabitats.
Mimick natural landscapes
Designing slopes, caves, or ledges can replicate the natural environments of your vivarium’s inhabitants.
This not only enhances realism but also fosters a more stimulating environment.
Consider the inhabitants
Arrangement hardscape elements based on your inhabitants.
Arboreal species, for instance, benefit from vertically oriented structures, while terrestrial species may prefer ground-level hiding spots.
Ensure hardscape stability
Prioritize stability and secure hardscape elements firmly to prevent accidental collapses or injuries.
Be careful with rocks
When using sizable rocks, place a piece of egg crate or corrugated plastic underneath to distribute weight and prevent pressure on the glass, reducing the risk of cracks or other damage.
Find inspiration in nature
Take walks in the woods, appreciating the infinite combinations of rocks, wood, plants, and mosses, and take photos of details that inspire you.
By immersing yourself in the natural world and observing its intricate details, you can replicate its beauty.
Don’t rush things
Taking your time and allowing yourself the opportunity to explore different possibilities can make all the difference in creating a truly exceptional vivarium.
Take breaks, step away from your project, and let things sit overnight so you can come back with fresh eyes.
Create depth and dimension
Incorporating various levels and depth within the vivarium not only adds visual appeal but also provides exploration opportunities for your animals.
Utilize elevated platforms, plenty of branches, and backgrounds to offer climbing spaces and microhabitats.
Mimick natural landscapes
Designing slopes, caves, or ledges can replicate the natural environments of your vivarium’s inhabitants.
This not only enhances realism but also fosters a more stimulating environment.
Consider the inhabitants
Arrangement hardscape elements based on your inhabitants.
Arboreal species, for instance, benefit from vertically oriented structures, while terrestrial species may prefer ground-level hiding spots.
Ensure hardscape stability
Prioritize stability and secure hardscape elements firmly to prevent accidental collapses or injuries.
Be careful with rocks
When using sizable rocks, place a piece of egg crate or corrugated plastic underneath to distribute weight and prevent pressure on the glass, reducing the risk of cracks or other damage.
Find inspiration in nature
Take walks in the woods, appreciating the infinite combinations of rocks, wood, plants, and mosses, and take photos of details that inspire you.
By immersing yourself in the natural world and observing its intricate details, you can replicate its beauty.
Don’t rush things
Taking your time and allowing yourself the opportunity to explore different possibilities can make all the difference in creating a truly exceptional vivarium.
Take breaks, step away from your project, and let things sit overnight so you can come back with fresh eyes.
Learn from the best
Image: Kono Terra
Draw inspiration from other designers’ creations.
Social media platforms can be a valuable resource for exploring diverse vivarium designs and gaining insights into effective hardscape arrangements.
Just be careful not to play the comparison game too much, as these are professionals!
Make sure to follow our Instagram, too, for a constant stream of scapes from vivarium artists.
7. Plants
Plants plays a crucial role in creating a balanced and thriving ecosystem.
They contribute to the overall health and well-being of the inhabitants, provide natural hiding spots, and aid in maintaining proper humidity levels.
Additionally, plants help filter the air, and even contribute to the ecosystem’s nutrient cycle.
Let’s dip our toes into the world of vivarium plants, from processing and acclimation to selecting and caring for beginner-friendly plants.
Don't toss your trimmings
Save your cuttings! Many tropical plants can be nestled in damp sphagnum moss or substrate and will root if left undisturbed.
We also like to keep clippings in small grow tubs for future vivariums.
Selecting healthy plants
Starting with healthy plants is of utmost importance.
Healthy plants serve as the foundation for a thriving ecosystem, providing the necessary elements for a balanced and sustainable habitat.
Healthy plants are more resilient, better equipped to adapt to their new environment, and have a higher chance of flourishing.
Additionally, healthy plants create a more enjoyable and captivating experience for both you and your vivarium’s inhabitants.
Tips for selecting healthy plants
Perform a visual inspection
When choosing plants for your vivarium, carefully examine their overall appearance.
Look for vibrant, green leaves without any signs of discoloration, spots, or wilting. Avoid plants with too much visible damage.
Purchase from reputable sources
Even the best plant nurseries will have mishaps, but by sticking with reputable sources it gives you the best chance at receiving healthy plants, especially when you are purchasing online and can’t inspect the plants first.
Avoid chemically-treated plants
Select plants that have not been treated with pesticides, which can be harmful for your vivarium’s inhabitants.
Most vivarium and terrarium plant suppliers grow plants without using pesticides specifically this reason.
Make sure they’re pest-free
Ensure the plants are free from any pests or signs of infestation, such as webs, holes in leaves, or visible insects.
Pests can quickly spread and wreak havoc on your vivarium’s ecosystem, and can easily spread to your other vivariums.
Plant processing
We recommend processing your plants before planting. This involves a series of steps aimed at ensuring they are healthy, pest-free, and free from any potential contaminants.
By taking the time to process your plants, you reduce the risk of potential problems and create a strong foundation for a thriving vivarium.
Tips for plant processing
Quarantine new plants
When acquiring new plants, it’s a good idea to quarantine them before introducing them to your vivarium.
This isolation period allows you to closely observe the plants for any signs of pests or diseases.
The quarantine should typically last for a few weeks, during which you can monitor the plants’ health and take appropriate action if any issues arise.
A quarentine period is particularly important when you are introducing new plants to an already established vivarium.
Clean and rinse
Before placing the plants in your vivarium, clean them thoroughly, especially if you purchased them from a nursery and are unsure if they’ve used pesticides.
Gently rinse the plants under lukewarm water to remove any dust, dirt, or potential contaminants, including the roots.
Be cautious not to do too much damage to delicate roots during this process.
Trimming
Before planting, taking a moment to give the plants a gentle trim.
By removing any dead or wilted leaves not only enhances their appearance but also encourages them to focus their energy on developing vibrant, healthy growth.
Acclimating plants
Plants, like any living organisms, need time to adjust to new conditions.
The first 3 or 4 weeks are most important to minimize the risk of shock or stress, allowing the plants to establish themselves and thrive in their new habitat.
Tips for successful acclimation
Proper humidity
Evaluate the humidity levels in your vivarium and make sure they align with the plants’ requirements. Some plants prefer higher humidity, while others thrive in drier conditions.
For tropical vivariums, it’s important that the new plants never dry out while they are establishing their root system, as this could easily be fatal.
Plant placement
Vivariums naturally have varying levels of light and humidity throughout the enclosure. Light will be much brighter near the source, and areas of damp soil will stay more humid.
Consider these micro climates while assessing where to place your plants.
Introducing inhabitants
Consider waiting a month or two before introducing inhabitants to the vivarium while the plants adjust to their new environment and put down new roots.
Small animals like poison dart frogs or micro geckos may not do much harm, but we highly suggest waiting before introducing snakes or larger lizards.
Continuous monitoring
After integrating the plants, closely monitor their progress, observing their growth and overall health. Make adjustments to lighting, temperature, or humidity if necessary.
Regularly inspect the plants for any signs of stress, disease, or pest infestation and take appropriate action promptly.
Considerations for vivarium plants
Most tropical plants tend to do well in terrariums as they enjoy high humidity. Aside from humidity, there are other factors you may want to consider as well.
Leaf size
Opting for plants with varying leaf sizes can enhance visual appeal. Be aware that plants that have large leaves may block light for plants below, creating areas where growth
is limited.
Growth pattern
Consider the growth pattern of plants, which can influence their placement within the vivarium. Planning ahead based on whether you want terrestrial, vining, or epiphytic plants will help create an appropriate environment.
Growth rate
Keep in mind the growth rate of plants, as some species like Creeping Fig can grow rapidly and dominate a setup. Though, this rapid growth can be advantageous if you’re aiming to fill in a tank quickly.
Common vivarium plants
There are countless species of plants that will thrive in tropical vivariums. The types below are a great starting point to get familiar with.
Ferns
Begonias
Mosses
Selaginellas
Peperomias
Pileas
Bromeliads
Where to buy
While your local gardening store or supermarket can be a starting point for more common ferns and houseplants, they don’t offer too many vivarium-suitable species.
These are some of our favorite places to purchase plants.
Image: Josh’s Frogs
Online vendors: The most common place to buy would be a vivarium or terrarium supply shop. Many of them a huge selection of plants, as well as bundles for convenience.
Etsy marketplace: Etsy is a fantastic online marketplace brimming with plant sellers of all sizes and niches, making it a great destination for finding plenty of rare plant clippings at reasonable prices.
House plant shops: Local plant stores are another excellent option, especially if you’re fortunate enough to have one with a dedicated section for terrarium plants.
Aquarium shops: Aquarium shops can be a secret goldmine for terrarium enthusiasts, as many aquarium plants thrive in an “emersed” state when grown above water.
Reptile shops: Additionally, keep an eye out at reptile stores, as they increasingly stock terrarium plants alongside their reptile supplies
Other hobbyists: Lastly, connecting with other hobbyists can lead to great finds, as individuals with surplus plant clippings may offer them for sale to followers on social media.
Popular online vendors
8. Lighting
While lighting can become more complex when dealing with rare or delicate plants, beginners can start with a simple approach by focusing on easy-to-grow plants.
There are several reasons why lighting is important in a vivarium. Firstly and most obvious, plants require light for photosynthesis, the process by which they convert light energy into chemical energy to fuel their growth.
Additionally, a day/night cycle is important for the inhabitants of the vivarium to replicate a normal circadian rhythm, which can contribute to their overall well-being and natural behavior.
Understanding kelvin and lumens
When researching lights for your vivarium, you will come across two common types of measurements: kelvin and lumens.
Kelvin
Kelvin is the unit of measurement for color temperature. It determines the hue of the light emitted. Some lights have a soft warm glow, while others emit a bluish tint.
For most vivarium plants, lights in the 4500K-6500K range are ideal, as this falls within the standard daylight range.
This color temperature provides a balanced spectrum of light that is neither too warm nor too cool. Nowadays, many lights come with LEDs that allow you to adjust the color temperature according to your desired temperature.
Lumens
Lumens measure the intensity or brightness of light. In general, the higher the light wattage, the higher the lumens, indicating more intense light.
Specific plant light requirements vary widely. Some thrive in low-light conditions, while others prefer bright light.
That said, we typically don’t worry about lumen count, except for rare or delicate plants. Instead, we adjust plant placement to manage light intensity.
Plants that prefer higher light are positioned higher in the enclosure, while those needing less light are placed lower.
For instance, ferns may suffer if they are too close to the light source, resulting in crispy leaves.
Conversely, bromeliads thrive in bright light and can be positioned higher in the vivarium without concern.
How much light is enough?
A 10-12 hour lighting period is generally a good starting point, closely mimicking the natural light cycle near the equator, where most of the world’s tropical habitats are located.
If you start with hardy and easy plants when setting up your vivarium, you can keep lighting simple and increase your chances of success.
Example lighting system
Since determining the optimal brightness for your vivarium lights may not have a straightforward formula, here’s an look at our current setup.
We have found success using strip lights on several of our vivariums. These lights are not only thin and visually appealing but also budget-friendly.
Often a single light strip is sufficient. However, lately, we have been using two lights per vivarium to help with light distribution.
For placement, one light is positioned near the front of the vivarium, set to 100% brightness, allowing light to reach lower terrestrial plants. The second light is positioned approximately 2/3 of the way back, and adjusted to around 50-75% brightness to prevent scorching plants that climb higher on the background.
We’ve been running this setup on several 36”x18”x36” enclosures for over two years with great success.
Avoid direct light
It’s generally recommended to avoid direct sunlight in glass enclosures as it can quickly lead to overheating.
If your enclosure is exposed to direct sunlight, it’s best to limit this exposure to a short period, preferably in the morning before temperatures rise.
In this scenario, it’s crucial to monitor temperatures closely before introducing any inhabitants to ensure a safe and comfortable environment.
Shedding light on UVB
Depending on the species you keep in your vivarium, you may also need to add UVB lighting.
This type of lighting is particularly crucial for diurnal animals that bask in sunlight, a behavior commonly seen in lizards, snakes, and various other species.
It’s essential to conduct thorough research on the specific lighting requirements of your inhabitants to determine if UVB is needed for their well-being.
Also, keep in mind that UVB rays cannot penetrate through glass.
If your vivarium has a glass lid to maintain humidity levels, it’s vital to ensure that the UVB light source is not obstructed by the glass. This may require some creativity and adjustments in placement.
To allow UVB rays to pass through, you may need to modify the cover by cutting the glass or using a partial screen top that permits direct exposure to the UVB light source.
This ensures that your animals receive the necessary UVB for their physiological health and natural behaviors.
The power of smart plugs
Many lights on the market now include automatic timer functionality.
However, if you purchase a light that doesn’t, smart plugs (like these) are highly recommended, as they allow you to control the lights remotely through a smartphone app.
By plugging your lights into a smart plug and connecting it to your phone, you can easily set a repeating lighting schedule and forget about manually turning the lights on and off.
9. Humidity
Understanding humidity and its implications in a vivarium is essential for maintaining a healthy environment for the inhabitants.
Ideal humidity ranges
The ideal humidity range in a vivarium depends on the type of ecosystem being recreated. Different species have specific humidity requirements.
What follows are general guidelines. It’s critical to research the specific humidity requirements of the animals you’re housing, and adjust the humidity levels accordingly to provide a home that mimicks their natural habitat.
Tropical vivariums
Tropical environments generally have high humidity levels.
In these vivariums, the humidity range is often maintained between 60% to 80%, and can even reach 100% during the evenings.
This higher sustained humidity allows for proper hydration required for the growth of tropical plants and animals.
Temperate vivariums
Temperate vivariums aim to replicate moderate climates and typically provide humidity levels in the 40% to 60% range.
This provides a balance between moisture and dryness, catering to a variety of species that prefer moderate humidity levels.
Often these setups are still misted once or twice a day, but with enough ventilation that water droplets evaporate after a few hours.
Arid vivariums
Arid environments, on the other hand, have low humidity levels. In these vivariums, the humidity range is often kept lower, around 40%, and sometimes feature a humid hide depending on the inhabitants.
Hand misting
Hand misting is a straightforward method of increasing humidity in a vivarium by manually spraying water throughout the enclosure.
It’s a simple and effective way to maintain optimal humidity levels, especially for small or individual vivariums.
Advantages of hand misting
Hand misting offers several advantages for maintaining humidity in a vivarium.
Flexibility
Hand misting allows you to have direct control over the moisture levels. You can adjust the frequency and amount of misting based on the specific needs of the vivarium inhabitants.
Observation opportunities
While misting, you have the chance to observe the behavior and response of the organisms in real-time. This allows you to gauge the effectiveness of misting and make adjustments accordingly.
Cost-effective
Hand misting requires minimal equipment and is an affordable method for maintaining humidity, especially for smaller vivariums or specific areas within a larger enclosure.
Considerations for hand misting
Water source
Using purified water is advisable to prevent mineral buildup that can affect the vivarium. Tap water may contain harmful substances, especially for amphibians.
Additionally, using purified water helps avoid hard water deposits on the glass surfaces.
Frequency
The frequency of hand misting depends on the specific requirements of the vivarium inhabitants.
Monitor the humidity levels regularly using a hygrometer and adjust the misting frequency accordingly.
In general, misting once or twice a day is a good starting point depending on how much ventilation is provided, but individual species may require more or less.
Consistency
Maintaining a consistent misting schedule helps provide a stable humidity for the vivarium inhabitants.
Consistency is especially crucial for species with specific humidity requirements, such as tropical amphibians.
Cleaning equipment
Periodically clean the spray bottle or mister to prevent the growth of bacteria or mold.
Using purified water also helps avoid the buildup of mineral deposits that may clog the sprayer nozzle.
Equipment choice
There are two types of hand misters that work well for smaller setups.
Our favorites are pump sprayers (available in all sorts of sizes), and the other being continuous spray bottles, that we use for small terrariums.
Automatic misting systems
Automatic misting systems may cost more than a hand mister, but in our opinion, it’s money well-spent.
Advantages of automatic systems
Automatic misting systems offer several advantages for maintaining humidity in a vivarium.
Consistency
Automatic misting systems provide a consistent and reliable source of moisture, ensuring that the vivarium’s humidity levels remain within the desired range.
Time-saving
By automating the misting process, these systems reduce the need for manual intervention, saving valuable time so you can focus on other aspects of care.
Customization
Automatic misting systems come with adjustable settings, allowing you to fine-tune misting frequency, duration, and intensity. This customization is beneficial for meeting the specific humidity requirements of the inhabitants.
Travel
Another significant advantage is the peace of mind it offers when traveling. With an automatic misting system in place, you can easily maintain humidity when away.
Recommended systems
MistKing is the preferred choice for many enthusiasts with large collections, and are known for reliability.
In general, misting systems have a reputation for being finicky, but we’ve had great success with the Repti-Zoo 10L for several years now.
Considerations for misting systems
When installing an automatic misting system, consider the following.
Vivarium layout
Assess the vivarium’s design and layout to determine the optimal placement of misting nozzles and tubing. Ensure that the misting coverage reaches all necessary areas.
Water source
As with hand-misting, it’s recommended to use purified water to prevent minerals or chemicals from building up and affecting the vivarium, as well as to avoid hard water deposits on the glass and plants.
Compatibility
Consider the size of the misting system and its water reservoir with the vivarium’s size, species, and specific humidity requirements.
If you have to refill the water reservoir every few days, it makes sense to get a larger reservoir.
Misting frequency
Adjusting the misting frequency is essential to match the vivarium’s requirements.
Consider factors such as the species’ moisture needs, temperature, and ventilation. Fine-tune the misting frequency to prevent under or over-misting.
Manual or automatic misting?
We actually prefer a combination of both methods.
While the automatic misting system is incredibly useful, occasional manual misting serves to reach areas that the automated system may miss.
It also offers an opportunity for close observation and inspection of both plants and inhabitants.
Reverse osmosis (RO) water
As we’ve mentioned, it’s generally advisable to avoid using tap water because of the minerals and chemicals that are often present.
So what should you use instead? The most common response to that question would be RO water.
What’s RO water?
Reverse osmosis is one of many methods used to purify water, meaning RO water is just one type of purified water.
The process works by applying pressure to push water through a semi-permeable membrane, effectively filtering out impurities such as minerals, salts, and organic compounds.
The goal is to obtain pure water, and essentially any type of purified water will suffice, including gallons of purified or distilled water from your local grocery store.
Some individuals even collect rainwater, although it’s important to be cautious as it can contain contaminants depending on your location and method of collection.
Where to get RO water
If you have just one or two small setups, purchasing purified water by the gallon during your routine grocery shopping trips is a convenient option.
For multiple larger enclosures, it’s practical to keep a larger supply on hand. Either buy multiple gallons, or fill a 5-gallon bucket at a water station or fish store
for this purpose.
If you’re deeply invested in vivariums, consider filtering your own RO water. You can opt for a permanent installation or, as some do, use a portable filter and connect it to the faucet to fill a five-gallon bucket every few weeks.
Using a fogger
Foggers are another method of providing humidity in a vivarium by producing a fog that spreads throughout the enclosure, simulating a natural misty environment.
The fog created by foggers helps increase humidity levels and provides moisture for the vivarium inhabitants.
Benefits of a fogger
Humidity control
Foggers are useful for significantly boosting humidity levels, particularly in larger vivariums.
Mimics natural environment
The fog created by foggers replicates the misty conditions found in certain habitats, creating a more realistic and comfortable environment for the vivarium inhabitants.
Aesthetically pleasing
The mist generated by foggers adds visual appeal to the vivarium, creating an immersive setting
It can contribute to the aesthetics and provide a unique experience for both the vivarium and its observers.
Ultimately, the decision to incorporate a fogger should be based on personal preference and the specific requirements of the vivarium inhabitants.
Do I need a fogger?
To put it plainly, no, you probably do not need a fogger. In most cases, consistent misting is more
than adequate.
A well-designed misting system can effectively maintain humidity levels and provide the necessary moisture for the vivarium’s inhabitants.
Tips for optimal humidity
Maintaining the right humidity level in a vivarium is crucial for the well-being of its inhabitants. Here are some general tips to help you maintain optimal humidity levels.
Get a hygrometer
A hygrometer is a humidity measuring device that helps monitor the humidity levels in the vivarium. It’s a critical tool to ensure humidity levels remain within the appropriate range for the vivarium inhabitants.
This allows for timely adjustments to misting methods, ventilation, or other factors to maintain a healthy humidity environment.
Create microclimates
Create hiding spots or microclimates within the vivarium where humidity levels may naturally be higher.
This allows the inhabitants to seek out their preferred humidity conditions.
Fine-tuning misting
Adjust the misting frequency based on the specific needs of the vivarium inhabitants and the environmental conditions.
Regularly monitor humidity levels and observe the behavior of the inhabitants to find the optimal misting frequency to reach your humidity targets.
Adjust ventilation
Adjusting ventilation is crucial for managing humidity levels in an enclosure. If your setup has a screen lid, consider covering a portion or most of it with glass or plastic to
retain humidity.
However, keep in mind that some ventilation is necessary for adequate air circulation, preventing stagnant air and reducing the risk of mold or bacteria growth.
10. Cleanup crew
A cleanup crew is an integral component of any thriving vivarium ecosystem.
These small organisms, such as isopods and springtails, serve a crucial role in maintaining the cleanliness and balance of the vivarium environment.
Here are a few reasons why a cleanup crew is essential.
Waste breakdown
In any vivarium, waste is inevitable. Animal excrement, decaying plant matter, and uneaten food can accumulate and create an unhealthy environment if not properly managed.
This is where the cleanup crew shines. Isopods and springtails feed on and break down organic waste into smaller particles. By doing so, they facilitate the decomposition process and prevent the accumulation of harmful substances in the vivarium.
Nutrient cycling
As the cleanup crew breaks down waste, they convert it into readily available nutrients for plants. The breakdown process releases essential elements that are vital for plant growth and development.
By recycling nutrients, the cleanup crew contributes to the overall health and vitality of the vivarium’s plant life.
This symbiotic relationship between the cleanup crew and plants ensures a sustainable nutrient cycle within the ecosystem.
Maintaining balance
Vivariums are miniaturized ecosystems, and like any ecosystem, they rely on a delicate balance of factors to thrive.
A well-functioning cleanup crew helps maintain this balance by breaking down waste, as well as aerating the substrate, improving its structure and preventing anaerobic conditions.
Additionally, their activities promote beneficial microbial populations, creating a healthier and more stable vivarium environment.
Top cleanup crews
I put all three of the following cleanup crews in every one of my vivariums.
Powder orange isopods
Powder orange isopods (Porcellio scaber) are known for their rapid reproductive abilities, allowing them to establish thriving populations quickly.
They thrive in humid environments, but are hardy enough to tolerate lower humidity if there’s a humid hide.
Powder orange isopods prefer to dwell among leaf litter and mosses, where they play a crucial role in waste breakdown and nutrient cycling.
Powder blue isopods are the same species, just a different color, and work just as well.
Dwarf white isopods
Dwarf white isopods (Trichorhina tomentosa), are a fraction of the size of powder orange isopods.
They are a great addition because of their burrowing habits, which helps to aerate the substrate.
These isopods are more sensitive to drying out and require consistent humidity to thrive, so keep their habitat adequately moist at all times.
Dwarf white isopods have a unique behavior of playing dead, so don’t be surprised if they appear motionless when you disturb them.
Springtails
Springtails are another crucial member of the vivarium cleanup crew, and definitely another must-have.
Despite their small size—they max out at about 2mm—they play a significant role in vivarium ecosystems.
While they can assist in breaking down waste, their primary benefit lies in consuming mold, making them an excellent addition to prevent mold outbreaks on decaying matter.
There are many types of springtails, but any generic “tropical” or “temperate” springtails will do great.
Introducing a cleanup crew
Adding a cleanup crew to your vivarium is a straightforward process, and we prefer adding all three of the crews mentioned previously.
You can easily acquire them from a local reptile store or online from many reputable sources.
Once you have your isopods and springtails, simply pour, sprinkle, or shake them into the vivarium.
It’s advisable to give them several weeks to settle in and start multiplying before introducing your main vivarium inhabitants.
This allows the cleanup crew to establish their population and begin breeding so they’re ready to get to work and maintain the vivarium’s cleanliness.
If you’ve already added your inhabitants, it’s a good practice to sprinkle the cleanup crew below the leaf litter, allowing them to hide before they become a tasty snack.
Where to buy a cleanup crew
There are numerous places to purchase cleanup crews, ranging from local reptile stores and expos to online stores and marketplaces like Etsy.
We typically buy from our local reptile store, but here are a few of our favorite online sources for acquiring cleanup crews.
Feeding your cleanup crew
Image: ReptiFiles
Feeding your cleanup crew isn’t always necessary but can be a good habit to ensure their population remains robust and thriving.
While some vivariums may sustain their cleanup crew without additional feeding, others may benefit from supplemental food to prevent population decline.
There are various products available for feeding cleanup crews, such as Repashy Morning Wood or Josh’s Frogs Clean-Up Crew Cuisine.
Alternatively, you can use table scraps like cucumber or carrot slices, making sure to remove leftovers after a day or so to prevent mold growth.
While this feeding routine doesn’t need to be daily, offering food once a week or every couple of weeks can still support the health of your cleanup crew.
Additionally, ample leaf litter is helpful. Crumple dried leaves into small pieces or powder and spread them on the soil, then top with intact leaves for a more complete environment for your cleanup crew.
Keeping bugs on backup
Many people will also maintain ongoing cultures of isopods and springtails.
This allows you to purchase them once, split them into multiple colonies, and always have a population to add more to your vivariums from time to time.
11. Maintenance
You might be wondering about the types of maintenance required for your vivarium.
Let’s highlight the key aspects of regular maintenance that will allow you to enjoy the beauty and wonder of your vivarium while also ensuring the well-being of both the vivarium itself and its inhabitants.
Feeding inhabitants
It should go without saying, but make sure to thoroughly research the specific dietary needs of your vivarium inhabitants and provide a suitable diet.
Most animals appreciate a varied food selection. Regularly offer fresh food and promptly remove any uneaten portions to prevent spoilage and maintain cleanliness.
Spot cleaning
Regularly clean the vivarium by removing visible waste, uneaten food, or soiled substrate. Spot cleaning helps prevent odors and promotes a clean environment.
Small critters like poison dart frogs produce small amounts of waste that will naturally break down on their own.
Larger inhabitants like snakes or larger geckos will require manually removing their waste, and then letting the cleanup crew handle the residual matter.
Cleaning glass
You’ll want to clean the glass so you can appreciate the activities of your vivarium’s inhabitants.
It is crucial to avoid using any chemicals in this process.
Instead, we recommend to simply use purified water, such as distilled or RO water, which also helps prevent the formation of unsightly water spots.
Pruning and plant care
Occasionally prune or trim plants to control their growth.
Some plants naturally shed leaves or experience decay and rot. Remove any dead or decaying plant matter to promote a healthy and visually appealing vivarium.
Other plants may grow excessively and require trimming to ensure adequate light reaches lower plants.
Misting and humidity
Consistently monitor humidity levels using a hygrometer and make adjustments as needed by increasing misting frequency or duration.
Remember to use purified water to prevent water spots and eliminate the risk of introducing harmful chemicals into the vivarium environment.
Drain excess water
To maintain a healthy vivarium environment, it is important to drain any excess water from the drainage area before it reaches the substrate layer.
This proactive measure helps prevent the accumulation of stagnant water, which can lead to various issues.
Continuous monitoring
Regularly observe the vivarium for signs of pests, disease, or imbalances in the ecosystem.
Monitor temperature, humidity, and other environmental factors to identify and address any issues promptly, ensuring optimal conditions for the vivarium’s inhabitants.
Common concerns
Mold
In the early stages of setting up a vivarium, you might encounter an abundance of mold, especially on wood. This is typically no cause for concern.
Although it’s not inherently harmful, it is certainly unsightly and undesired. The good news is it’s typically temporary.
However, if excess mould persists in large quantities, you may have too much decaying matter. We recommend manual removal to speed things up.
Make sure you have seeded your setup with springtails, as they are highly effective in combating mold as they consume it along with decaying organic matter.
Mushrooms
Mushrooms are a frequent sight in vivariums and generally not a cause for worry.
The most prevalent type is the yellow “flower pot parasol” mushroom (Leucocoprinus birnbaumii), which thrives in moist substrates.
Although harmless, we prefer to remove them before they grow too large. When mature, these mushrooms release spores that spread a yellow dust over the nearby area.
While there are various other mushrooms you might come across, they usually appear in small numbers, and we find each of them quite intriguing!
Mites
Mites are essential components of numerous ecosystems, and this includes vivariums.
While certain mites offer benefits, others may become unwelcome inhabitants, posing risks to the vivarium’s residents. Identifying the specific type of mite is crucial.
Refer to our online article on the four most common types of mites as a starting point to assess any potential concerns.
In many cases, an abundance of damp decaying matter can lead to mite issues. If managed appropriately and not allowed to escalate, the situation often resolves itself over a few weeks or months.
Dying Plants
Firstly, it’s important to verify that the plant in question is well-suited for a vivarium environment.
While we can’t diagnose all issues here, common issues leading to plant decline include inappropiate amounts of water, light, or exessive trampling by inhabitants.
We suggest prioritizing the ideal environment for your inhabitants, and then selecting appropriate plants that enjoy similar conditions.
Consider choosing beginner-friendly plants initially for better success and gradually expand your plant choices as your skills grow.
That's a wrap!
You are now well on your way for building a thriving vivarium.
We truly hope that the knowledge and insights you’ve gained will prove invaluable as you embark on your own vivarium journey.
Wishing you joy in your vivarium endeavors!